Jewelry Inspired by the Life and Legacy of Coco Chanel

Patrice Leguéreau has intended a assorted variety of items given that he grew to become the director of Chanel’s Good Jewelry Inventive Studio in 2009, but they always commence with the same inspiration: the designs, life style and individuality of the brand’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.

“This is the starting position, the foundation, the commencing of every single new selection and new solution,” Mr. Leguéreau (pronounced LE-gehr-oh) explained in a mobile phone interview from his Paris office environment in a Position Vendôme building that also homes a not long ago renovated boutique focused to Chanel’s great jewellery and watches.

“Sometimes I am impressed by Gabrielle Chanel herself: her lifestyle, her good friends, her apartments,” he additional, “or at times only by a incredibly potent graphic icon, like camellia or the lion. The inspiration comes from diverse pieces of the Chanel universe.”

As its most recent couture fashions are remaining revealed, Chanel is presenting Mr. Leguéreau’s latest significant jewellery collection in Paris to clientele and other invited attendees. (Some parts from the line have been demonstrated in Taiwan in Might.) Its 71 products variety from a comparatively subdued white gold and diamond ring accentuated by a significant star (in, sure, extra diamonds) to grander pieces like a white gold collar adorned with 839 diamonds, such as 1 stone that’s 5.02 carats.

Dubbed the 1932 Superior Jewelry Selection, the parts pay back homage to a line Ms. Chanel produced 90 a long time in the past, referred to as just Bijoux de Diamants — diamond jewelry. Like the apparel and fragrance she’d previously turn out to be famous for, it was undeniably high-class but lacked formality and fuss.

“She wanted to do in jewelry the exact same matter that she did in trend, which meant that the parts ought to be quite wearable,” explained Fabienne Reybaud, who wrote a volume on Chanel’s high-quality jewellery and watches that is aspect of a 3-aspect compendium on the brand posted by Assouline.

With the selection, Ms. Chanel effectively opened the door for vogue residences to produce their very own superior jewelry lines.

“She disturbed, and she moved, the earth of jewellery,” Mr. Leguéreau reported.

Just one piece from Bijoux de Diamants, he claimed, specifically influenced him — an open diamond necklace developed to symbolize a comet, punctuated by a large star. “It’s seriously a masterpiece,” he explained, including that it is “jewelry that is established to healthy the entire body of the female.”

The new 1932 selection is Mr. Leguéreau’s 2nd direct homage to Bijoux de Diamants. In 2012, Chanel marked its 80th anniversary with a comparable selection. This year’s iteration consists of anything new: colored stones like sapphires and blue opals blended with the copious array of diamonds.

Also, its motifs are devoted to cosmic imagery like moons and stars. The purpose, Mr. Leguéreau stated, was “to develop a assortment much more focused and much more concentrated.”

Mr. Leguéreau oversees the structure of Chanel’s higher jewellery and also its significantly less rarefied wonderful jewelry. Over the years, his collections have provided highly recognizable brand motifs, including information that counsel the brand’s bouclé jackets and the matelassé quilting of its distinctive handbags.

“He creates jewelry wherever you can know that it is by Chanel,” Ms. Reybaud said.

“It’s sort of like omni-channel internet marketing,” mentioned Christopher Olshan, main government of the Luxury Marketing and advertising Council Throughout the world. “You want a steady manufacturer message throughout all channels.”

Although Chanel doesn’t share product sales figures, its jewelry business enterprise appears to be flourishing: there are Chanel boutiques that exclusively offer high-quality jewelry and watches in cities like London, New York, Hong Kong and Shanghai.

Mr. Leguéreau stated that he doesn’t perform right with the designers of Chanel’s other groups, but he felt an affinity with them. “We have all a purely natural relationship together, simply because the Chanel title, the Chanel patrimony, the Chanel heritage, is so deep and so clear, so clear,” he reported.

Mr. Leguéreau, 51, speaks about his function with enthusiasm. When it will come to his particular existence, he’s guarded.

Born in Paris and elevated in between the town and France’s Burgundy location, he will not share substantially about his upbringing, besides to say that as a baby he created a enthusiasm for drawing that he employs in his perform today, considering that sketching is an integral part of the way he models. He also acquired a enjoy of sporting activities that remains — he has operate marathons in Paris and New York, for instance, and enjoys snowboarding and biking.

As a young male, he did not program to go into jewellery structure — he acquired a diploma in 1991 from École Boulle, a Paris-dependent faculty of artwork and used art. But he grew to become interested in luxury and, as he place it, “for me, jewelry is the most luxurious exercise.” It led him to make a graduate degree in 1998 from the Institut Nationwide de Gemmologie, about a mile northwest of where he performs today.

Ahead of joining Chanel, he made jewelry for 17 several years at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Surely, heritage is an inherent element of his earlier employers’ jewellery, but Mr. Leguéreau states Chanel’s hyperlink with its earlier is special.

“The heritage is extra a spirit, a philosophy, and that makes for me a lot more flexibility to produce pretty contemporary and present day merchandise,” he said. “That gives far more space to develop. The spirit is really, very unique.”

Mr. Leguéreau’s collections consider amongst two and 3 many years to produce, but he’s currently scheduling some thing with a little bit much more recognize: a assortment for the 100th anniversary of Bijoux de Diamants.

“I’ve started pondering about the way I could celebrate this selection in 10 several years,” he mentioned, “to continue to be various, to shock and to make a thing new and contemporary.”

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